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Why Zagreb Deserves a Place on Your Croatia Itinerary

When planning a trip to Croatia, the question often comes down to Split or Dubrovnik. Both are wonderful — and both are busy. But if you’re looking to understand Croatia beyond its coastline, the country’s capital, Zagreb, is well worth your time.

We visited Zagreb during a fast-paced 10 countries in 10 nights road trip from northern Germany to Italy, and it quickly stood out as one of Europe’s most underrated capitals. Which is why we made a return trip to Croatia’s capital city.

See our road trip itinerary of Croatia.

Calm, walkable, and refreshingly local, Zagreb is a city that rewards travellers who prefer to explore on foot rather than tick boxes from a bus window.

Zagreb is also one of the easiest cities in Croatia to navigate independently. The historic Upper Town and the elegant Lower Town connect naturally, making it ideal for a self-guided city walk — the kind that lets you pause for coffee, detour into parks, and actually absorb what you’re seeing.

If you’re building a broader Croatia itinerary and want more than the usual highlights, Zagreb fits neatly between the coast, Istria, and inland Croatia — and it offers a completely different rhythm of travel.

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Where to Stay in Zagreb

We stayed at Hotel Jägerhorn, a small, character-filled hotel tucked just below the Upper Town. Location-wise, it’s spot on: close enough to walk everywhere, yet quiet once the day-trippers disappear.

Our room included a kitchenette and excellent coffee downstairs — a combination we never underestimate. At around €50 per night at the time, it offered strong value for a central Zagreb stay, especially compared to coastal cities.

Zagreb doesn’t demand a long hotel list. What matters most is location, and staying within walking distance of the historic centre makes the city feel far more relaxed and intuitive to explore.

Zagreb: Upper Town vs Lower Town (What That Actually Means)

Locals will often refer to Upper Town and Lower Town, and it’s worth understanding the distinction early.

• Upper Town (Gornji Grad) sits on the twin hills of Kaptol and Gradec, at the foothills of Medvednica Mountain. This is medieval Zagreb: cobblestones, churches, gates, and viewpoints.

• Lower Town (Donji Grad) spreads out below in a flat, orderly grid of Austro-Hungarian architecture, leafy parks, and cultural institutions.

You don’t need transport between them. Zagreb is compact, and walking is the best way to experience how the city transitions from historic to grand to everyday local life.

The Green Horseshoe: Zagreb’s Lower Town at Its Best

The Lower Town is anchored by Lenuci’s Horseshoe, a sequence of seven green squares arranged in a loose horseshoe shape. It’s easier to appreciate on a map, but when walking it feels like a series of elegant pauses — places to rest, people-watch, and reset between sights.

1. King Tomislav Square and the Art Pavilion

King Tomislav Square is a gentle introduction to the Lower Town. Locals sit on the grass, read, nap, or simply watch the day unfold.

At its centre stands the Art Pavilion, the oldest exhibition space in southeast Europe, opened in 1898. Even if you don’t step inside, the building itself is reason enough to stop.

2. Nikola Šubić Zrinski Square

This square combines fountains, mature trees, and another fine example of Zagreb’s civic architecture. It’s also home to the Gallery of Old Masters, housing part of Bishop Strossmayer’s historic collection.

3. Zrinjevac Park

Zrinjevac Park is one of Zagreb’s most lived-in spaces. Families picnic here, couples stroll, and outdoor concerts often take place at the 19th-century music pavilion.

You’ll also find Zagreb’s first fountain here, built in 1878 and affectionately nicknamed The Mushroom.

4. Croatian National Theatre

Bright yellow and impossible to miss, the Croatian National Theatre was built in 1895 and remains one of the city’s most elegant landmarks. Even without a performance ticket, it’s worth passing through this area for the architecture alone.

5. Zagreb 360° Observation Deck

For a different perspective, the Zagreb 360 Observation Deck offers panoramic views across the Lower Town toward the Cathedral and Upper Town. Visit earlier in the day for softer light and clearer photos.

Access via Ban Jelacic Square and open from 10 am to midnight.

Gornji Grad: Zagreb’s Upper Town

The Upper Town is one of the best-preserved medieval areas in Croatia. It’s compact, atmospheric, and perfectly suited to slow exploration.

6. Zagreb Cathedral

The twin spires of Zagreb Cathedral dominate the skyline. Originally dating to the 13th century, the cathedral was heavily rebuilt after the 1880 earthquake. At 108 metres, it remains the tallest building in Croatia.

7. Stone Gate

The Stone Gate is both a historic entrance and a place of quiet devotion. After a fire in 1731 destroyed the gate, a painting of the Virgin Mary survived untouched. Locals still light candles here — and visitors are asked to pass through respectfully and in silence.

8. St Mark’s Church

With its colourful tiled roof, St Mark’s Church is one of Zagreb’s most recognisable sights. The roof displays the coats of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, and Slavonia on one side, and the city of Zagreb on the other. Visit in the evening if you can — the square feels calmer and more intimate.

The church was originally built in the 13th century and was heavily reconstructed in the late 1500’s.

9. Strossmayer Promenade

Often shortened to Stross, the Strossmayer Promenade is where Zagreb loosens its tie. Artists sell handmade pieces by day; bars and live music take over later on. The views stretch across the city, and if walking back downhill doesn’t appeal, the nearby funicular offers a short, nostalgic ride.

10. Tkalčićeva Street

Tkalčićeva Street is Zagreb’s most lively pedestrian strip, lined with cafés, bars, and restaurants. Reach it via Dolac Market in the morning, or arrive in the evening when the street fills with locals. For a casual beer stop, Pivnica Mali Medo is a reliable favourite.

 

An Unexpected Highlight: Museum of Broken Relationships

Zagreb also surprises. The Museum of Broken Relationships is unlike anything else we’ve seen. Personal objects donated after break-ups are displayed alongside short stories — some funny, some raw, all strangely human. Even a brief visit leaves an impression.

Explore Zagreb on Foot: Free Map & City Walks

Zagreb is a city made for walking. Distances are short, landmarks connect logically, and the pace invites you to slow down.

If you’d like a deeper, step-by-step experience, our Zagreb City Walk is designed for independent travellers who want:

• a clear walking route

• historical context without overload

• logical start and finish points

• freedom to explore at your own pace

It’s the same way we explore cities ourselves — calmly, confidently, and on foot.

Zagreb may not shout for attention like Croatia’s coastal stars, but that’s exactly why it works so well. Give it a day or two, lace up your walking shoes, and let the city reveal itself — one street at a time.

For more beautiful places to visit in Croatia, check our our guides for:

• Zadar
• Best of Split
• Istria Pennisula