Hangzhou wasn’t initially on our China travel itinerary. But after talking with friends who told us of its beauty, we decided to plan a three-day stay.
Is it worth visiting Hangzhou?
Absolutely.
Marco Polo loved it, and West Lake is a UNESCO heritage site near the famous Longjing Tea plantations.
What we found on our three-day stay in Hangzhou has made it one of our favourite travel destinations. We have fallen in love with this wonderful city and want to share the best of Hangzhou with you.
And best of all, Hangzhou is only an hour by fast train from Shanghai.
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Getting from Shanghai to Hangzhou
The high-speed train was the fastest and best option from Shanghai to Hangzhou.
With speeds reaching 250 km/h and a distance of 166km, the one-hour journey from Shanghai to Hangzhou East train station was so easy.
Shanghai Metro is easy to use
Our friends suggested using the Metro to get to Shanghai’s Hongqiao Train Station.
Unable to read Chinese, we found that the person at the Metro Help Desk spoke English. We were given an English translation of the metro, tickets to the metro, and the platform we needed.
So helpful.
Next, we had to pass through a security check of our bags and a security scan. When we arrived at Hongqiao Train Station, this security was repeated.
Hongqiao Train Station is massive.
Coming from New Zealand, the entire country’s population is five million. When we arrived at the Hongqiao train station, we felt like we were looking at a small city—so many people.
We needed to find the ticket office for trains to Hangzhou.
There were so many boards giving directions that we tried to negotiate the length and levels of the building.
Spot the European, our heads spinning, trying to take it all in!
Luckily, the departure boards and train maps are printed in English underneath the Chinese characters.
We soon realised buying a ticket here at the train station was slow. Would we miss our train?
Luckily, the fast trains are frequent, but we wanted the express train to take only 60 minutes.
Queueing, queueing, queueing at the ticket counter. At last, with passports in hand, we had our tickets.
If you are travelling with someone, ensure the tickets seat you together and in the same carriage.
We waited near the platform gate for the train to arrive.
Once the gates are open, the train arrives about 5 minutes later, leaving you only a minute or two to board the train and find your seat.
The train was clean, the seats comfortable, and the ride was smooth. Even the platforms are clean.
Book Online Fast Train Shanghai to Hangzhou
Here is a link for booking train tickets online – China Highlights
You can either have the ticket sent to your Hotel or collect it at the ticket counter at the train station. Show your confirmation email and passport to the ticket counter to collect your tickets.
Where to Stay in Hangzhou
Arriving at Hangzhou East Train Station, we found our way to the entrance to catch a local taxi to our Hangzhou Haihua Hotel.
Unfortunately, our travel budget exceeded our nightly budget to secure this hotel. With a lack of options from Hangzhou Hotel Reviews, our choice of Haihua Hotel Hangzhou made our stay enjoyable.
Haihua Hotel is 500 metres from West Lake. The staff was friendly, and the concierge spoke English. Our room came with breakfast, which included a selection of Western and Eastern foods.
Bicycles are also available for rent from the Haihua Hotel. Ask the concierge for a copy of the Hangzhou Tourism guidebook, which contains plenty of places to see and visit around West Lake.
The hotel is also close to the Shangcheng District, so there are plenty of places to eat, either by the lake or amongst the locals.
With upmarket shops, young people out and about, and Police on every corner, we felt very safe.
Buy Travel Insurance before you leave home
Remember to book travel insurance before you leave for your vacation. We can highly recommend Cover-More Insurance, our travel insurance provider since 2016.
Cover-More’s website makes it easy to organise online travel insurance quotes and online travel insurance claims.
Why Choose Hangzhou?
Marco Polo described Hangzhou as ” the finest, most splendid city in the world where one fancies himself to be in paradise.” And we agree with him.
Hangzhou is the capital of Zhejiang Province, and the region’s population is close to 22 million. The city prospered as the terminating port of the Grand Canal from Beijing.
What draws most tourists to Hangzhou is the UNESCO West Lake.
West Lake is picturesque, with many beautiful gardens, ponds, temples, and pagodas. It is one of the best places to visit in Hangzhou.
Hangzhou can be explored on a self-guided walk or cycling tour, allowing you to experience West Lake’s beauty.
Places to explore in Hangzhou UNESCO West Lake are:
- Bai Causeway
- Yang Causeway
- Su Causeway
- Leifeng Pagoda
- Beishan Road and Broken Bridge
- Crane Pavilion and Tea Houses
- Cycle and Walk West Lake Promenade
- Enjoy a Boat Ride on West Lake
- Watch Tai Chi, Chess and Dancing
The Beauty of West Lake, Hangzhou
We ventured out in the afternoon to the West Lake to find it buzzing with people walking its shores.
Those who already know how large West Lake is (15 kilometres) chose to view the scenery from electric golf carts or while cruising the lake in various boats.
Most of the lake is pedestrian-only, but parts are also shared by bikes and electric carts. A beautiful, wide pathway runs along its edges.
Finding a cafe and a coffee, it’s time to sit and people-watch before getting amongst it.
Towering above those we met and from the stares and smiles from those around us, we appear to be the only Europeans this afternoon.
Walk the Bai Causeway
Walking the Beishan Road to Broken Bridge will take you along the tree-lined Bai Causeway.
The Bai Causeway dates back to the Tang Dynasty and is a popular place where people can chat and admire the lake views on each side of the causeway.
It was named after Bai Juyi, the Governor of Hangzhou in the Tang Dynasty, who, by building a dam, increased the flow into West Lake for farming irrigation.
The Bird Lady of Hangzhou
An unexpected highlight when on the Beishan Road was the “bird lady,” (just our nickname.)
The Bird Lady was biking with a Starling bird sitting atop her head. At various times, the bird would fly up and around her head and then settle back on her head. It’s bizarre but fascinating, especially as people gathered to listen to her as she caged the bird at the end of her bike ride.
Crane Pavillion and Tea Houses on West Lake
Reaching the other side of the Broken Bridge, we found examples of Chinese architectural villas, now Tea Houses. The beautiful buildings provide a relaxing place to sit and view the lake.
You will find many tea houses, as the area is known for brewing tea from the Longjing Tea plantations, about 7 km from the lake.
Our interest was the Crane Pavillion. Every morning, the cranes are released to fly over the lake. It is quite a spectacular sight.
Cycling West Lake in Hangzhou
Around the West Lake and streets of Hangzhou are Red Bicycle stands. The locals can buy a card to pick up or drop off bikes around the city.
This morning, we rented a couple of bikes from the Haihua Hotel to explore the lake. We decided to take the alternative route from last night’s walk.
As we tried to enter the lake promenade, we were told by the Police in Chinese to get out. No bikes? Not allowed?
We got the message and found the dedicated cycle lane and continued our exploration.
Read on for TravelKiwis West Lake Bike Tour and Hefang St (also known as Qinghe St.)
Watch and Enjoy West Lake Promenade Activities
One of the best things to see around West Lake is the many activities of the local people.
The lake promenade was alive with:
- tai chi,
- walkers,
- runners,
- ballroom dancers,
- discussion groups and
- people out for a walk.
You may find the odd person wanting to dress in traditional costumes for a photo memory.
The activities occur amongst beautiful gardens showcasing many bronze sculptures, with pathways to explore.
Views from Leifeng Pagoda
Our first tourist spot of the day was Leifeng Pagoda or, as the locals say, “Sunset Glow over Leifeng Pagoda.”
Locking the bikes and paying the entrance fee, we are ready to climb the stairs up to the Pagoda. But wait, there is also an escalator to reach the pagoda.
How cool. So we rode part of the way for fun before returning to the steps.
Leifeng Pagoda dates from the Southern Song Dynasty and was rebuilt atop old foundations. Once inside the Pagoda, you can view the original foundations and learn about the historical period of the Southern Song Dynasty.
The view from the top of the lake was fantastic despite the cloudy day.
It’s time for a toilet stop (oh no, potty squatters for Maura – come on, China) before it’s back on the bikes and off we go.
Cycling the Yang Causeway
Yang Causeway and another “wow” experience.
Visiting the villas and gardens from the Ming Dynasty is just another reason why Hangzhou should be on your China itinerary.
We walked along the path to “Viewing Fish and Lotus Flowery Harbour,“ which had trees, flowers, and bridges. One of the highlights was finding the pool of red carp fish looking for food.
The next stop is “Breeze-ruffled Lotus at Winding Courtyard.”
Hangzhou is known for its Poets, so these places are named after them. It is another great spot to view lotus flowers on the lake before we cross the road to a large rose garden with a bamboo walkway.
Before we know it, we pass by Yue Fei’s tomb, ride across the Bai Causeway, and return to Haihua Hotel. It’s now 12.30 pm after our 4-hour bike tour.
Climb Wu Shan Hill
Always up for more places to see in Hangzhou, we had read about Qinghefang Street, situated at the foot of Wu Shan Hill.
As it is only a few kilometres from the Haihua Hotel, we walk along West Lake to find the street. When we look up, we see “Sky Wind over Wu Hill” or City God Pavillion.
Entranced by the elegance of the City God Pavillion, we walked until we found the road leading to the pavilion. Winding through narrow streets and overhanging trees, we reached the top of the hill to see the Pagoda.
We paid the entrance fee, allowing us to climb the Pagoda’s five floors. The spectacular views gave us a different perspective of West Lake.
QingHefang Street in Hangzhou Old Town
Qinghefang Street, situated at the foot of Wu Shan Hill, was Hangzhou’s trade centre 800 years ago. Today, it is a bustling market and a great place to sample local foods.
Many of the old shops have been on Qinghefang Street since the Southern Song Dynasty. There is so much to learn about this amazing street.
And now all we need is a beer to quench the thirst.
Turning into Imperial Street, we are greeted by buildings from the 1930s.
Finding a small bar, we climb to the third floor to see the streets below. The bar is built in the Chinese style, so it’s tall and narrow. Watch your head, Terry.
Feeling refreshed, we continued our walk to find another great example of this cultural city.
We came across a bronze group of statues depicting the local people, so we stayed and chatted for a while.
Views from Precious Stone Hill
Yesterday, we biked the 15-kilometre circumference of West Lake, so today, we decided to walk the 15-kilometre route.
Our first stop was “Precious Stone Hill Floating in the Rosy Cloud” above Beishan Road.
Typical of us, we decided to take the back way up the hill and found ourselves climbing over rocks and through open rock caves when the siren sounded.
“Is that an air raid siren? Have we walked on the grass?”
Nothing happened, so we continued walking until the siren went off again. Looking puzzled, we wondered if it was the local volunteer Fire Brigade in this city of millions.
We kept walking, and the siren went again, but we had the answer this time.
A group of young locals tell us the pollution siren indicates high levels. From where we are on the hill, we can see a haze across the modern area of the city.
Unperturbed, we continue our hike to the Pagoda to take photos of the West Lake.
Walking the Su Causeway
Down the hill, we find ourselves back on Beishan Road, with its 1930s buildings and museums. As the temperature is now 30 degrees, we stop at a local tea house to refresh ourselves.
The beautiful tree-lined streets help absorb the heat as we continue along the Su Causeway, which dates back to the Song era and traverses the lake from south to north.
When we reach the end of Su Causeway, should we take a local boat across the lake or continue our walk?
While the Su Causeway is not as interesting as the Yang Causeway, we decided to walk and were not disappointed. Finding:
- The squirrels climbing trees
- “sweet” Chinese music from camouflaged loudspeakers in trees
- elders catching fish
- games of mahjong
- Golden statues in ponds
- happy wedding couples
The Golden Cow
During the Han dynasty (206 BCE-220), a golden water buffalo lived at the bottom of the lake. Whenever the lake dried up, the water buffalo spewed water until the lake was full again.
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Hangzhou at Night
Cruising Jing-Hang Canal
Tonight, we head in the opposite direction of West Lake to view the Jing-Hang Canal. Known as the Grand Canal of China, it stretches from Beijing to Hangzhou, a distance of 1,794 kilometres.
No wonder it is listed in the World Cultural Heritage Hall of Fame.
The area around the Jing-Hang Canal has modern architecture with walking promenades on either side of the canal. Here, you can explore the various areas of interest, some dating back to the 5th century:
- Xiaohezhi Historical Street
- Qiaoxi Historical Block
- Dadoulu Historical Block
We decided on a night cruise, which allowed us to view the sculptures underneath the many bridges. However, a daytime cruise would have been better for photos.
The cruise was noisy but enjoyable, as we were the only Europeans on board. We even got to converse with those on board with our limited Chinese. Telling them, we were from New Zealand.
Spend Three Days in Hangzhou
If you have planned to travel to China, make sure to add Hangzhou to your China itinerary.
As our three-day adventure in Hangzhou came to an end, we couldn’t help but reflect on the city’s unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and modern charm.
From the tranquil moments spent walking along West Lake’s picturesque shores to sipping freshly brewed Longjing tea, Hangzhou captivated us at every turn.
We absorbed its historical allure, its serene landscapes, and its vibrant culture.
Hangzhou is a city that invites you to slow down, explore, and savour. Its proximity to Shanghai makes it an easy addition to any China itinerary, and yet, it feels a world away from the bustling metropolis.
If you’re seeking a destination that will leave you inspired and refreshed, look no further than Hangzhou. It truly lives up to its reputation as a paradise on earth—and, like us, you may find it hard to say goodbye.
If you need more information or want new travel ideas, we would love you to join us on our travel journey.