Hue Vietnam: A First-Time Visitor’s Guide to the Imperial City

Yes, Hue is absolutely worth visiting — especially for travellers who want history, culture, and a slower pace than Hoi An or Hanoi.

Why Hue Deserves a Place on Your Vietnam Itinerary

Many travellers visiting Vietnam glide straight past the imperial city of Hue, choosing instead the lantern-lit streets of Hoi An or the postcard limestone cliffs of Halong Bay. And honestly? That’s understandable. Vietnam spoils you with choices.

But what they’re missing is a city that quietly hums with history, creativity, and youthful energy — a place where emperors once ruled, monks protested for freedom, artists sketch by the river, and students gather each evening to talk, laugh, and practice their English.

Spend two days in Hue, and it quickly becomes clear why this central Vietnamese city is one of the country’s most underrated gems.

Hue was the capital of Vietnam from 1802 to 1945, during the Nguyen Dynasty, and its imperial past still shapes the city today.

Set along the banks of the Huong River — better known as the Perfume River — Hue feels greener, calmer, and more reflective than Vietnam’s bigger cities.

Yet beneath that gentler pace is a creative pulse powered by nine universities, a thriving arts scene, and a deep pride in cultural heritage.

Welcome to Hue — Vietnam’s city of emperors, artists, and ideas.

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Getting to Hue: The Scenic Route via the Hai Van Pass

Hue is easily reached from Hoi An or Da Nang by car, train, or bus, but the Hai Van Pass offers the most scenic first impression.

From Hoi An or Da Nang to Hue

Rather than hopping on a bus or train, we chose to travel from Hoi An to Hue by private car, taking the legendary Hai Van Pass — and we’re so glad we did.

The drive takes around three hours, but it’s not about speed. It’s about the journey.

The road winds along narrow coastal stretches and climbs into misty hills, with regular stops for photos and fresh air. It’s one of Vietnam’s most scenic routes, and one that tells its own story of geography, trade, and war.

A Stopover Worth Considering: Da Nang

Just north of Hoi An lies Da Nang, a modern coastal city with long sandy beaches and its own international airport. If you’re building a flexible Vietnam itinerary, Da Nang makes a great short stop.

Things to see and do in Da Nang include:

• Dragon Bridge, especially at night

• Marble Mountains and their cave temples

• Linh Ung Pagoda on Son Tra Peninsula

• American War helicopter hangars

One lesser-known fact?

Da Nang is a major centre for religious sculpture production. Along the roads you’ll see workshops selling everything from serene Buddhas to saints and fierce stone dragons — a fascinating glimpse into modern Vietnamese craftsmanship.

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Crossing the Hai Van Pass: History with a View

Leaving Da Nang, you pass China Beach, where fishermen work their boats close to shore, before spotting the striking White Lady Buddha in the distance — the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam.

Then the climb begins.

The safer, faster option between Da Nang and Hue is the modern road tunnel. But taking the original Hai Van Pass is far more memorable. From the summit, the views stretch back over the South China Sea, and the sense of history is palpable.

At the top, roadside stalls sell drinks and snacks, and you’ll find the remains of French and American military bunkers, once crucial lookout points during different wars. Standing inside those crumbling concrete walls, bullet holes still visible, brings a sobering reality to Vietnam’s past.

Descending the northern side of the pass, the landscape softens into rice paddies, lagoons, and fish farms, with stunning views over Lang Co Bay.

By the time you roll into Hue, you’ve already travelled through centuries of Vietnamese history — before even stepping foot in the city.

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Where to Stay in Hue for First-Time Visitors

For our stay, we chose the Muong Thanh Holiday Hue Hotel, located close to the Perfume River promenade — an ideal base for exploring on foot.

Why This Area Works Well

• Easy access to river walks and evening activity

• Short trips to the Citadel and markets

• Plenty of restaurants, cafés, and bars nearby

Our stay included breakfast, a swimming pool (very welcome in Hue’s heat), and a bar for a late-afternoon drink after sightseeing.

If you want a more local feel, Airbnbs and homestays are plentiful in Hue and often offer wonderful hospitality. Budget travellers will also find good-value guesthouses, especially on the south side of the river.

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Where to Eat in Hue: Local Food and Riverside Dining

An Unforgettable Evening at Ancient House

One of our most memorable meals in Vietnam happened entirely by chance.

On our first evening, we wandered along the river promenade, watching the sun dip behind the Perfume River. Hue really comes alive at dusk — small bars fill up, street food stalls appear, and locals gather simply to enjoy the cooler air.

We noticed a small restaurant tucked along the riverbank — Ancient House — with tables perfectly placed for sunset views. Nearby, a man was tending a lush vegetable garden. Smiles were exchanged. It felt right.

We ordered beers and spring rolls, intending just a light snack. But the setting was so peaceful, the food so good, that we decided to stay for dinner… until we realised we didn’t have enough cash.

No ATMs nearby. Problem, right?

Not in Hue.

Our waitress smiled and said, “No problem — I take you ATM.” Moments later, Maura found herself riding pillion on a moped through Hue traffic (eyes firmly shut), while Terry relaxed back at the table with his second beer.

Cash secured, dinner followed — fresh, beautifully flavoured, and surprisingly elegant. Vietnamese coffee sealed the deal.

The final twist? The gardener we’d noticed earlier was the restaurant owner, growing herbs and vegetables just metres from our table.

We loved the experience so much we returned on our final night — and were thanked personally for our TripAdvisor review.

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7 Ways to Experience Hue in Two Days

Hue rewards slow travel. Two days is enough to understand its rhythm, history, and creative soul.

1. Walk Along the Perfume River (Hue’s Cultural Heart)

The Perfume River is Hue’s beating heart. Its name comes from the scented flowers that fall into the water from trees upstream.

Shaded paths make it ideal for walking, even in the heat. Along the promenade you’ll find:

• Sculptures and public art

• Students painting, playing music, or selling artwork

• Locals exercising, chatting, and relaxing

Hue hosts the Hue International Festival, celebrating art, heritage, and performance. Even outside festival time, creativity feels woven into daily life.

As a university city, Hue’s students are curious and friendly. Many will approach visitors to practise English — genuine conversations that offer insight into modern Vietnam.

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2. Explore the Hue Imperial City and Citadel

To truly understand Hue, a visit to the Imperial City (Citadel) is essential — and we highly recommend hiring a guide.

This UNESCO World Heritage site is vast and layered, comprising:

• The Capital Citadel

• The Royal Citadel

• The Forbidden Purple City

Built from 1802 by Emperor Gia Long, who unified Vietnam and moved the capital from Hanoi to Hue, the complex reflects both Vietnamese tradition and Chinese influence.

Walking through its gates, palaces, and courtyards, you’ll also see the scars of war. The Citadel was heavily bombed during the American War, and restoration work continues today. Bullet holes remain visible in stone walls and ceremonial vessels — quiet reminders of recent history layered atop imperial grandeur.

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3. Ride a Cyclo Through the Local Wet Market

Emerging from the Citadel’s east gate, we climbed aboard traditional cyclos, pedalled by older men with remarkable strength and stamina.

The ride took us through local streets and into Hue’s wet market, a sensory overload of colours, smells, and unfamiliar produce. Apple custard fruit, guavas, herbs, seafood — it’s real, everyday Hue.

Generous tipping felt well earned in the heat.

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4. Visit the Tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh

A short drive outside the city brings you to one of Hue’s most striking royal tombs.

Khai Dinh Tomb is dramatic, ornate, and unlike the others. Built over 11 years, it blends Vietnamese tradition with European architectural influences.

Climb the steep steps past stone mandarins, elephants, and soldiers, and you’ll reach a lavish interior decorated with glass and porcelain mosaics — opulent and slightly theatrical.

The views over the surrounding countryside alone make the visit worthwhile.

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5. Cruise to Thien Mu Pagoda by Dragon Boat

For a slower pace, take a dragon boat cruise along the Perfume River to Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue’s unofficial symbol.

The journey takes about 30 minutes each way, offering breezes and views of daily life along the riverbanks.

Built in 1601, the seven-storey pagoda sits peacefully above the river. Inside the grounds, you’ll see the Austin Morris car driven by a monk to Saigon in protest during the American War — a powerful symbol of resistance and sacrifice.

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6. Experience Hue’s Nightlife (Quietly)

Hue nightlife isn’t about clubs — it’s about atmosphere.

In the evenings, the river promenade fills with lanterns, students preparing art installations, musicians performing, and families enjoying street food. During festival periods, the energy increases, but even on ordinary nights there’s a gentle buzz that invites you to linger.

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7. Take a Final Cyclo Tour of the City

On our last day, a spontaneous cyclo tour took us through:

• Cao Temple

• Local neighbourhoods

• Canals lined with old family homes

• Busy roadside markets

• Past a French colonial school once attended by Ho Chi Minh

It was the perfect farewell — unhurried, personal, and deeply local.

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Why Hue Belongs on Your Vietnam Itinerary

Stopping in Hue for two days transformed our understanding of Vietnam.

This is a city where imperial history, war memories, youthful optimism, and artistic expression exist side by side. It’s less polished than Hoi An, less chaotic than Hanoi — and all the richer for it.

You can reach Hue by overnight train from Hanoi, or by road from Da Nang or Hoi An. However you arrive, give it time.

Hue doesn’t shout for attention.
It rewards those who slow down and listen.

And once you do, it quietly stays with you long after you’ve left.